Les
Invalides
Metro : Invalides -
Latourg-Maubourg - Varennes
The Esplanade des Invalides strikes due south from Pont Alexandre III
and provides a functional 500 m of grassy area, intersected by roads
and edged by trees and boules terrain. The wide façade of the
Hotel des Invalides, topped by its distinctive dome, resplendent with
gilding, fills the whole of the further end of the Esplanade. It
was built on the orders of Louis XIV as a home for wounded
soldiers, and part of the building is still used for this. Under the
dome are two churches : one for the soldiers, the other intended as a
mausoleum for the king, but now containing the mortal remains of
Napoleon.
Both churches are cold and dreary inside. The Eglise
du Dome, in particular, is a supreme exemple of architectural
pomposity. Corinthian columns and pilasters abound. The inside of the
Dome is covered w
ith paintings and flanked by four round chapels
containing the tombs of various luminaries such as Marshal Foch and
Joseph, Napoleon's older brother. Napoleon's sarcophagus, of
smooth, red porphyry, in sunk into the floor and enclosed within a
gallery. Fiezes on the wall depict Napoleon sporting a laurel wreath
and toga and addressing his subjects. The captions display
awesome
conceit : "Co-operate with the plans I have laid for the welfare of
peoples"; "By its simplicity my code of law has done more good
in France than all the laws which have preceded me" ; "Wherever the
shadow of my rule has fallen, it has left lasting traces of its value."
The Hotel also houses a couple of museums, the
larger of which is Musée de l'Armée, France's vast
national war museum. The exhibition, displayed over several floors and
wings, start with ancient weapons and armoury, including
François 1er suit of armour and some beautifully decorated
oriental war outfits. In the east wing, the history of the
french armed forces is documented via its uniforms and weaponry,
while in the south-westerly wing, a new three-floor section
on World War II had recently opened. Battle tactics, the
resistance and liberation are documented through the usual maps and
displays, but it's the reels of contemporary footage (english
translation available) that are the most stirring.
