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Les Ambassadeurs

Hotel de Crillon, 10, place de la Concorde, 8th. Metro Concorde.
Open : Daily noon-2pm, 7h30-10pm. Average : 155 Euros. Credit : Amex, DC, MC, V.

If you hanger for gilt and crystal, polished marble and a velvet stool on which to perch your handbag, then this is your kind of place. The hotel is favorite by pop royalty and the other kind so you could pass  them in the foyer, glimpse  them at a table or just slip past the fans waiting outside and pretend. Chef Dominique Bouchet has a  sure touch with produce and a flair for presentation : portly green and white asparagus crowned with a perfectly poached, yolkoozing egg, a sliver of foie gras and truffle juice, or gem coloured spring vegetables drizzled with olive oil then sprinkled with slices of cured ham and fresh coriander. The mains, too, extol simple excellence : langoustine ravioli floating  in a broth of shellfish  and verbena, and delicately sliced salmon  arranged on tomato "petals" dressed with thyme flowers, olive oil, lemon and balsamic vinegar. Cheese zealots will be sated by two heaving trolleys and chocophiles can't help but swoon shamelessly for the six chocolate "grand cru" desserts on one plate. You'll pay (though the lunch prix fixe is quite a bargain for what you get), but what the hell - those flanks of doting waiters don't come cheap.
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