9, place de la
Madeleine, 8th. 01.42.65.22.90. Metro Madeleine.
Open : Mon-Sat 8-10h30, Tue-Fri noon-2h30pm. Average : 200 Euros.
Credit : Amex,
DC, MC, V.
We're
not sure it gets any better
than this. Cosseted in a merlot-coloured banquette, looking out through
art nouveau carved wood partitions with glass encased dragonflies and
butterflies, iris embossed silver cutlery at hand, along with some
genuinely accommodating young waiters and a glass of 19958 Dom Perignon
- it's lunchtime heaven on a plate. Opting for the 'dejeuner affaires',
good value next to some eye-catching à la carte offerings such
as 95 euros lobster and a 65 euros glass of wine, we didn't feel we
were second-besting it. Tender green asparagus came surrounded by
an emerald asparagus "cappuccino" with almond milk and tiny chips of
spicy pork sausage : plump little just cooked scallops studded
with shell-topped toothpicks threaded with pink pickled ginger and
bright green courgette floated in a heady broth of coconut milk.,
lemongrass and coriander. Alain Senderens is passionate about marrying
wine with food : thus each dish has a suggested tipple. AZ glass of
Pouilly Fuisee le Clos 1999 with the asparagus, and Condrieu Terrasses
2000 with the scallops, were inspired combinations. The standout main
was a featherweight tempura of sole and peppery celery leaves, lightly
flavoured with Madras curry, and ringed with a zingy cucumber
emulsion. A marvelous layering of flavours, ably washed down with
Condrieu Grandes Chaillées 2000 vanilla millefeuille, creme
brulée and some exquisite petits-fours. Same time tomorrow? We
wish!
