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Lucas Carton

9, place de la Madeleine, 8th. Metro Madeleine.
Open : Mon-Sat 8-10h30, Tue-Fri noon-2h30pm. Average : 200 Euros. Credit : Amex, DC, MC, V.

We're not sure it gets any better than this. Cosseted in a merlot-coloured banquette, looking out through art nouveau carved wood partitions with glass encased dragonflies and butterflies, iris embossed silver cutlery at hand, along with some genuinely accommodating young waiters and a glass of 19958 Dom Perignon - it's lunchtime heaven on a plate. Opting for the 'dejeuner affaires', good value next to some eye-catching à la carte offerings such as 95 euros lobster and a 65 euros glass of wine, we didn't feel we were second-besting it.  Tender green asparagus came surrounded by an emerald asparagus "cappuccino" with almond milk and tiny chips of spicy  pork sausage : plump little just cooked scallops studded with shell-topped toothpicks threaded with pink pickled ginger and bright green courgette floated in a heady broth of coconut milk., lemongrass and coriander. Alain Senderens is passionate about marrying wine with food : thus each dish has a suggested tipple. AZ glass of Pouilly Fuisee le Clos 1999 with the asparagus, and Condrieu Terrasses 2000 with the scallops, were inspired combinations. The standout main was a featherweight tempura of sole and peppery celery leaves, lightly flavoured with  Madras curry, and ringed with a zingy cucumber emulsion. A marvelous layering of flavours, ably washed down with Condrieu Grandes Chaillées 2000 vanilla millefeuille, creme brulée and some exquisite petits-fours. Same time tomorrow? We wish!
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