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Famous Paris restaurants

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41, Avenue Gabriel, 8th. Metro Champs-Elysees Clemenceau.
Open : Mon-Fri 12h30-2pm, 7h30-10pm. Average : 150 Euros. Credit : Amex, DC, MC, V.

With  its combination of elegant setting, refined cuisine and relaxed atmosphere, Laurent has long been one of the unsung sleepers among Paris'top restaurant. The three-course lunch menu, allowing a reasonable choice if dishes that are also (much more expensively) on the carte, plus a visit from the mahogany cheese car, is a good sampling of Alain  Peguret's style, which combines classicism with a partiality  for sweet glazes and bitter accents.  The soupe des maraichers of a starting deep green had a delicious sorrel tang and came dotted with "pickles" of girolle mushrooms. Violet artichokes sauteed  with bacon and herb were more rustic, topped  by parmesan wafers and a perfectly  mastered oeuf mollet  with a golden butter and breadcrumb crust. Next, a generous, fleshy section of monkfish  on the bone with an intense orange reduction, paired with tender fennel glazed  with orange and coriander. Pigeon  roast in a honey glaze was more classic, save for the thin sheets of peanut brittle posed on the meat., though it was the baby turnips with a speckled  Bourbon vanilla glaze that pleased us most.  Cheese, deep red bitter cherry sauce and roast peaches in a frothy sabayon with verbena ice cream rounded off the meal. In summer, the action moves outside from the pretty Napoleon III pavilion  to the lovely garden. The sight of Mick Jagger lunching with Charlie's Watts and business magnates saluting each other somehow seemed a typically Parisian gourmet mix.
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