29, rue
Vivienne, 2nd. 01.40.20.04.62. Metro Bourse.
Open : Daily 7-11h30 am, noon-3 pm, 7pm-1am. Average : 40 Euros.
Credit : Amex,
DC, MC, V.
Yes,
it's another Flo conquest (at
last count, the chain had gobbled up nine brasseries in Paris), but le
Vaudeville has maintained its old-fashioned vibe, mainly through the
stunning Art Deco interior and faultless service. The 1920s detailing -
engraved glass, ironwork, warm-toned marble and inlaid wood - was
designed by the Solvet Brothers, whose only other remaining masterworks
are la Coupole and la Closerie des Lilas. We sat at one of the long
tables against the wall and marveled at the waiters in the impeccable
black and whites, constantly busy on out late Friday night visit
seasoning dishes, delicately boning fish fillets on the sideboard or
cheerily mixing up each steak tartare to order. The food too, harkens
back to days of yore - no nouveau anything. We first sampled a plain
and a well-executed salad with chevre encrusted in toasted hazelnuts.
Fine fish, such a trio of charred salmon, red mullet and cod, or the
chunky slab of grilled cod with truffle-infused mashed potatoes, make
succulent main courses. Le Vaudeville's no-frills food is refreshingly
confident about what it is and what it is not.
