Famous Paris restaurants

restaurants of paris


15, rue Lamennais, 8th. Metro Charles de Gaulle-Etoile.
Open : Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 7h30-10pm. Closed August. Average :  110 Euros. Credit : Amex, DC, MC, V. Wheelchair access.

The ascension of chef Alain Soliveres, formerly of Les Elysées, to the kitchens of a restaurant widely considered to be among the top ten in the world is quite simply a brilliant success : it's been ages since we enjoyed a meal as much as we did our recent lunch at Taillevent.  Even the company of blasé bankers and other lucky dogs who might be described as regulars couldn't numb our constant, quite pleasure at the setting, service and most of all the food. Soliveres has a lusty style, but he always remains tantalizingly in control, with an astonishing ability to concentrate flavour. The amuse-bouche  that began our meal - cauliflower cream with a buttery, faintly poultry nuanced jus, was absolutely brilliant. Tipping his toque at his own past - he's a native of Montpellier and his reputation has so far been based on a stunning ability to reinvent the cooking of southern France - he produced three plump scallops topped with a miniature dice of Lucca olives, chorizo and parmesan and garnished with tender leaves of dandelion and rocket : a brilliant starter.  His mastery of the more traditional dishes that are the bedrock of the menu here is impressive, too, as seen in a creamy soup of ratte potatoes from Noirmoutier ladled over a dainty sauté of shelled crayfish. A seasonal suggestion was a long strip of tuna bell, immaculately cooked so that the firm texture of the fish played off of its own almost buttery richness, served with an elegant tangle os Espelette peppers, lemon, capers and serrano ham. Sea bass in shellfish jus with a few tiny clams and raw and braised artichokes, from the a la carte menu, was pleasant, but a little underwhelming in comparison. Similarly, the dessert list will have to be thoroughly revised to play to Soliveres' style. Jean-Pierre Vrinat, one of the world's great restaurateurs, was thoroughly charming host.

1st Arrondissement : Le Grand Vefour
1st Arrondissement : Le Carré des Feuillants
1er Arrondissement : L'Espadon
2nd Arrondissement : Le Vaudeville
4th Arrondissement : Hiramatsu
4th Arrondissement : L'Ambroisie
5th Arrondissement : La Tour d'Argent
7th Arrondissement : Le Jules Verne

8th Arrondissement : La Brasserie Lorraine
8th Arrondissement : Maxim's

8th Arrondissement : Alain Ducasse Plaza Athénée
8th Arrondissement : Lucas Carton
8th Arrondissement : Laurent
8th Arrondissement : Ledoyen
8th Arrondissement : Fouquet's
8th Arrondissement : Taillevent
8th Arrondissement : Le V Four Seasons
8th Arrondissement : Les Ambassadeurs
12th Arrondissement : Le Train Bleu
17th Arrondissement : Guy Savoy

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