14, rue de
Castiglione, 1st. 01.42.86.82.82. Metro Tuileries.
Open : Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 7h30-10pm. Average : 115 Euros. Credit : Amex,
DC, MC, V.
For
one of the best reputed
restaurants in Paris, the Carré des Feuillants doesnt look like
much. Despite its splendid address by Place Vendome, the entrance is as
the back of what amounts to a shopping mall. Inside, the restaurant is
full of arresting and beautiful details - the prints by Picasso, the
splendid, cocteau-esque candelabras - on a backdrop of granny-ish
pastel colours. The service too, though technically proficient, fell a
long way short of the complicit amiability that you hope for at a top
restaurant. All of which would be forgivable if the food were truly
outstanding. But our lunch of the season, though good, didn't rate much
more than lunch of the week. It started well with a dazzling profusion
of amuse gueules and a couple of glasses of excellent Champagne. This
made way for a tuna millefeuille whose delicate stripes of tuna,
aubergine, tomato and cheese were handsome on the plate and wonderful
on the palate. But the move from all that almost japanese aestheticism
to a house specialty from Alain Dutournier's native south west
France was a rather crunching gear change, even if our fillet of duck
was accompanied by a chinese style spring roll. Our wine, well chosen
by the sommelier, was a deliciously well-rounded red from languedoc
Roussillon which went nicely with the rustic roquefort and quince
dessert.
