Gare de Lyon,
Place Louis-Armand, 12th. 01.43.43.09.06. Metro Gare de Lyon.
Open : Daily 11h30 am-3pm, 7-11pm. Average : 50 Euros. Credit : Amex,
DC, MC, V. Wheelchair access.
This
listed dining-room has long been
one of the most romantic restaurants in Paris, with magnificent 1900
vintage frescoes of the alluring destinations once served by the
Paris-Lyon-Marseille railway, big oak benches with shiny brass coat
racks, and a pleasant air of wistfulness and expectation derived from
arrivals and departures. Don't come expecting cutting-edge cooking, but
rather fine renderings of French classics and first-rate produce.
Lobster served on a bed of walnut-oil-dressed salad leaves was a
generous, beautifully prepared starter - easily a luxurious supper on
its own - while pistachio-studded saucisson de Lyon with a warm salad
of small ratte potatoes was perfectly cooked and copious. Mains of veal
chop topped with a cap of cheese and sandre (pike-perch) with a
"risotto" of crozettes (tiny squares of pasta from Savoie) were also
pleasant, although given the size of the starters and the superb cheese
tray, you could easily have a satisfying three-course meal here without
a main. A large baba au rhum was split at the table, doused with good
martinique rhum, and slathered with cream. Charming and efficient
service adds to the pleasure of a meal here, and the only obvious
improvement would be the addition of a few reasonably prices wines to
the list.
