3, rue Royale,
8th. 01.42.65.27.94. Metro Concorde
Open : Tues-Fri 12h30-2pm, 7h30-10h30 pm, Sat 7h30-11h30 pm. Average
: 150 Euros. Credit : Amex,
DC, MC, V.
"I
am going to Maxims's ..." sings
Danilo in Léhar's operetta the Merry Widow, and as a parisian
landmark the restaurant is almost as famous as Eiffel Tower. So, armed
with a pretty young parisian débutante, where better to go for a
stylish lunch? The extravagant swirling belle époque decor
lives up to its reputation, and the slight hint of shabbiness
only adds to charm. We were expecting a room crammed with
international tourists and assorted glitterati; but, aside from our own
glamorous presence, there were just four other dinners, two mature
french businessmen exploring the wrongs of the modern world, and a pair
of stout English ladies straight out of Agatha Christie, who boomed in
fruity tones their desire for 'pancakes'. Word had it that the cooking
was no longer great, but despite the lack of modern fripperies such as
appetizing nibbles, a groaning plate of green asparagus with sauce
mousseline impressed us, even if the terrine of duck with truffles and
foie gras was only adequate. Our comforting main course was a plump
Challans duck for two, perfectly roasted with accompanying baby turnips
and salsify. The puddings were a classic millefeuille and a more
elaborate construction of violet-scented wild strawberries with a
rhubarb sorbet, which was pronounced as delicious by the debutante, who
by now had me firmly marked as an old-timer. The naughty 90s of Maxim's
are long past, but the staff were wonderfully old-school, and the
bottle of Maxim's own Mercurey surprisingly delicious. A time-warp
experience, which is your budget can bear it still has a unique, dusty
magic.
