Second level, Eiffel Tower, 7th. 01.45.55.61.44. Metro Bir-Hakeim.
Open : Daily 12h15-13h30/19h15-21h30. Average : 100 Euros. Credit :
Amex,
DC, MC, V.
So
wonderfully eccentric and
winsomely old-fashioned is the Eiffel Tower that it seems slightly
churlish to take a swipe at Le Jules Verne, internationally considered
top be one of the most romantic restaurants in the world by dint of its
setting on the second level. Unfortunately, however, lunch here were
disappointing on all counts. The door man and lift operator couldn't be
bothered with a greeting, and once seated at a splendid table
next to the window, we were served stunningly dull hors d'oeuvres
of soggy onion quiche and dried out cheese puffs. The silly decor - all
black, and rather disco-ey with halogen lamps on the tables -
desperately needs a makeover. Ramekins of beef aspic, pureed sea bass
and spinach, and new almonds as an amuse-bouche were an oversalted
convalescent home-treat, while a first course of gaspacho garnished
with tasteless crabmeat brought Heinz tomato ketchup soup to mind. Foie
gras served in place of the sold-out goat-cheese-stuffed ravioli was
mushy and had little taste. A tagine of pork cheeks came in a rich
gravy with baby vegetables and was pleasant enough, as was hachis
parmentier made with shredded preserved duck, but the problem with both
of these dishes is that haute cuisine restaurants never do bistro
cooking as well as bistros do. Thought it was gracious of the
restaurant to allow a switch to cheese instead of dessert, the quality
was poor to middling. A dessert of rose ice cream with hibiscus sauce
was refreshing and original, but the mignardises served with coffee
were disappointingly standard issue. All told this meal was a very
dated version of fancy french food for foreigners. So is the view worth
a meal here? Only if you come for the poor value 51 euros lunch menu
with decidedly earthbound expectations.