15-17 quai de
la Tournelle, 5th. 01.43.54.23.31. Metro Pont Marie.
Open : Tues 7h30-9pm. Wed-Sun noon-1h30pm, 7h30-9pm.. Average :
180 Euros. Credit : Amex,
DC, MC, V. Non-smoking room.
On
29 april 2003, la Tour d'Argent
celebrated its millionth mallard served since 1890, which makes us
curious about the numbering system : how exactly were they able to
predict the big day months in advance? In any case, it's always a
thrill to be handed a numbered postcard, which you can keep as a
souvenir or give to the waiter to post. Our lunch got off to an
inauspicious start, through no fault of the restaurant : told to
arrive no later than 12h30pm, we then waited an hour for one
member of our party to show up. Two of our group of five wore jeans and
one (the only parisian by birth) asked for a Coke. The teenage waiter
stood as if waiting for the pinch line, before scurrying off to find
out whether such a thing exists at la Tour d'Argent (thankfully, it
doesn't). Despite our rather eccentric behavior, which included
rejecting the young sommelier's suggestion of a Savigny-les-beaune for
a less suitable 1990 Fixin (87euros), staff were delighted
throughout. Ordering from the 65 euros lunch menu, which is
really the way to go here, four of us had the signature quenelles de
brochet (surely the best of paris), and one rebel enjoyed the duck and
foie gras terrine. None of us could resist the caneton roti
Pierre Elby, duck à l'orange served on apple compote, with a
spinach-and-cream feuilletté on the side. The fabulous
view on the Seine has a way canceling out flaws in the food, so were
were able to overlook the fact that the duck was cooked through rather
than rosé as requested. Desserts are a highlight here : a
wine-red poached pear, caramelised apple millefeuille and intense
chocolate tart delivered. No the best food in Paris, but certainly one
of the best experiences.
