Hôtel
Four Seasons George V, 31, Avenue George V, 8th. 01.49.52.70.00. Metro
George V.
Open : Daily noon-2h30pm, 6h30-11pm. Average : 180 Euros. Credit :
Amex,
DC, MC, V. Wheelchair access.
We
came out of here fully converted
to the cult of the George V. A look at the menu replete with lobster,
truffles, caviar, Bresse kitchen, turbot and sea bass and you couldn't
believe it to be simply a roll-call of grandeur. Not so. Philippe
Legendre does indeed produce luxury fare, but combined with precise
execution, well-judged service and just a whiff of invention. A tiny
artichoke and truffle tart on a delicate flaky pastry disc contained an
almost indecent amount of pungent black truffle. A layer of morels and
a dome of shredded spider crab meat were cleverly invigorated with
fresh chopped sorrel. The undoubted highlight, though, was the
lobster. Wood smoked in its shell and surrounded by a delicate,
frothy morel sauce, it was a revelation we won't forget. Potent
rosy-red pigeon roast with hay and mead was less surprising but
garnished with spring vegetables so full of flavour that they
could have come out of the garden that morning. Then the cheese trolley
full of well-aged specimens, among them the fabulous Venaco de Corse,
simply begged to be tried as well. Desserts - a rhubarb and strawberry
concoction with a tangy lemon sorbet and the gourmandise de mangue,
mango tubes filled with creamy chocolate, with a ginger caramel ice
cream - were fun but less exceptional. The dining room; redone a
couple of years ago in neo Louis XVI, could be ostentatious but
somehow remains calmly discreet. Tables are simply miles apart and gilt
flourishes are subtly offset by grey-green walls, all contrasting with
towering asymmetrical flower arrangements. The service, for once in a
grand establishment, got it just right.
