Famous Paris restaurants

restaurants of paris

Le V

Hôtel Four Seasons George V, 31, Avenue George V, 8th. Metro George V.
Open : Daily noon-2h30pm, 6h30-11pm. Average : 180 Euros. Credit : Amex, DC, MC, V. Wheelchair access.

We came out of here fully converted to the cult of the George V. A look at the menu replete with lobster, truffles, caviar, Bresse kitchen, turbot and sea bass and you couldn't believe it to be simply a roll-call of grandeur. Not so. Philippe Legendre does indeed produce luxury fare, but combined with precise execution, well-judged service and just a whiff of invention. A tiny artichoke and truffle tart on a delicate flaky pastry disc contained an almost indecent amount of pungent black truffle. A layer of morels and a dome of shredded spider crab meat were cleverly invigorated with fresh chopped sorrel. The undoubted highlight, though, was the lobster.  Wood smoked in its shell and surrounded by a delicate, frothy morel sauce, it was a revelation we won't forget. Potent rosy-red pigeon roast with hay and mead  was less surprising but garnished with spring vegetables  so full of flavour that they could have come out of the garden that morning. Then the cheese trolley full of well-aged specimens, among them the fabulous Venaco de Corse, simply begged to be tried as well. Desserts - a rhubarb and strawberry concoction with a tangy lemon sorbet and the gourmandise de mangue, mango tubes filled with creamy chocolate, with a ginger caramel ice cream  - were fun but less exceptional. The dining room; redone a couple of years ago in neo Louis XVI, could  be ostentatious but somehow remains calmly discreet. Tables are simply miles apart and gilt flourishes are subtly offset by grey-green walls, all contrasting with towering asymmetrical flower arrangements. The service, for once in a grand establishment, got it just right.
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17th Arrondissement : Guy Savoy

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