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Fouquet's

99 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th. 01.47.23.70.60. Metro Georges V.
Open : Daily 8am-2am. Average : 75 Euros. Credit : Amex, DC, MC, V. Wheelchair access. Non-smoking room.

With the arrival of chef Jean-Yves Leuranguer from the Martinez in Cannes, dining at Fouquet's, though still expensive, is now a real delight. We adored our five-course menu degustation. A starter scallop salad with fresh mango and sauteed leeks -  all light, modern - was followed by a rich and rustic risotto of wild mushrooms and warm foie gras. This was definitely the high point of our dinner but the turbot with squid sauce, tomatoes, courgette flowers and aubergines was good too, with strong mediterranean colours and flavours. With the Chablis going slightly to our heads, the desserts (yes, plural) went by in a flurry of sorbets, chocolate, praline and petits-fours. The service was impeccable... even after we asked  to be moved away from a table of union trade union leaders. As for the decor, although the textured, red wallpaper is reminiscent of a British city pub more than a parisian café, the overall effect is pleasantly old-style, a kind of 1950sish french charm.

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