Hotel Ritz, 15
place vendôme, 1st. 01.4.16.30.80. Metro Concorde.
Open : Daily noon-2h30pm, 7h30-10pm. Average : 180 Euros. Credit :
Amex,
DC, MC, V.
Perhaps
no name s more synonymous
with luxury than the Ritz, so it was with high expectations than we
trod the plush carpet towards the dining room - never mind that one of
us had arrived on a rickety old bicycle, determined not to be
thwarted by a Metro strike. "Bienvenue" said the maitre d'hotel with
sincerity, and thus began an experience so charming it became hard to
find flaw with anything. The gilded mirrors, silk swaggers and fluffy
cloud ceiling motif are, well, Ritzy, and we sank happily into the
velvet banquette and broad armchair, easily giving in to the
temptation to have an aperitif. The 68 euros menu is not bad
values as it includes cheese and coffee. After tasty but
uneventful amuse-bouches, the the meal began in earnest with oysters
marinated with orange, pineapple and fennel (too crunchy and not
entirely successful), a wonderfully smooth combination of poached
chicken and foie gras garnished with the "sot l'y laisse", and silky
green asparagus purée with beautifully cooked spiced
langoustines. Domes were whisked off in unison to reveal our main
courses, which were essentially bistro classics refined : meltingly
tender duck breast with carved turnip and caramelized spring
onions, sole in cockle-cream sauce with finely cut broad beans,
green beans and peas, and a thick slice of flaky cod with chunks
of lobster, grenaille potatoes and a meaty jus. We accompanied these
with pricey wines by the glass (it might have been wiser to order one
of the cheaper bottles at around 40 euros). then the hefty cheese
trolley arrived, the waiter egging us on to try several kinds of
chevre, a delicious roquefort and nutty aged comté. A chilled
hazelnut mousse, strawberries with hazelnut ice cream and a layered
chocolate tart kept up the standard - everything about this meal was
bright, fresh and eminently likeable.
